Most Common Food Allergies In Dogs

While it has become common to watch out for the signs of life-threatening food allergies in young children, it still comes as a surprise to some dog parents that their four-legged companions can also suffer from food allergies.

Just like in humans, a food allergy occurs when a dog’s immune system mistakenly believes a specific food is harmful. The dog’s immune system responds with antibodies, which triggers a series of dangerous symptoms.

Many seemingly random symptoms can be signs of a food allergy in a dog. These include:

• Chronic ear inflammation
• Itching
• Paw biting
• Poor coat quality
• Obsessive licking

Other symptoms more closely mimic symptoms seen in humans with food allergies, such as:

• Skin rash
• Hives
• Itching
• Nausea

• Chronic diarrhea
• Itchy rear end
• Chronic gas
• Vomiting

 If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, it is extremely important to have them checked out by a vet to determine if the symptoms are indeed signs of a food allergy.

The more the dog is exposed to the allergen, the more severe the reaction will become. Even if your dog is only irritated by the symptoms initially, they could be life-threatening the next time they eat the problem food.

Kinds of foods to watch out for

Dogs can be allergic to nearly any specific food ingredient. However, there are certain meats and grains that are more likely to cause an allergic reaction in your dog. These include:

• Pork
• Rabbit
• Beef
• Chicken
• Fish

• Lamb
• Egg
• Corn
• Soy
• Wheat
• Dairy

If your dog is allergic to one ingredient, she’s likely allergic to other ingredients as well.

To isolate which foods your dog is reacting to, your vet will likely put your dog on an elimination diet, followed by a food challenge. This is done by solely feeding your dog one or two foods, such as ground turkey and sweet potatoes. Once you’ve established that your dog doesn’t have a reaction to these two foods, you can start the food challenges.

Gradually, more items are added in, until you notice that your dog has an allergic reaction. This will clearly identify which allergens your dog is reacting to, and you can then create a diet avoiding any triggers.

If you find that your dog is still suffering from an allergic response, no matter what combination of food you give, then it’s likely your dog is not allergic to a particular food but may suffer an allergy to something else present in the environment, such as pollen, dander, a specific fabric, or a medication.

While it may seem overwhelming to care for a dog with food allergies, it is much simpler today than it was in the past. Many more foods are available, offering a wide variety of protein and grains that your dog may not react to, such as kangaroo, venison, potatoes, or oatmeal. With a little care and education, you can keep your dog safe, happy, healthy, and well fed.

By Juliana Weiss-Roessler via cesarsway.com

Dog Fur Tells A lot About A Dog’s Health

A happy dog is a healthy dog, and a healthy dog has strong, shiny fur. Your dog’s coat is one of the best ways to gain insight into your dog’s condition, be it physical or emotional. It’s very important to get to know the ideal qualities of your furry friend’s breed and to set aside time to maintain his or her coat with regular brushing and washing.

The right food
A balanced diet with plenty of protein and amino acid content will help strengthen and replenish your dog’s coat by giving it the building blocks of the hair’s natural structure. Dog fur is made mostly of protein, so a coat that is dull or fragile can be an indication that your pooch isn’t getting the best nutrition. Do your research about the best kind of food and the right portions of it for your dog. If the diet needs an extra boost, you can talk to your vet about pet supplements.

Unwanted guests
The fur can be an inviting shelter for ticks, fleas, and other parasites that are very bad for your dog’s health. This is especially true in dirty, matted hair. Parasites can lead to infections and discomfort in your dog. Keeping the coat clean and brushed gets you up close and personal with your dog’s skin and hair, ensuring that parasites stay away or don’t get to set up shop for very long.

Bad news with balding
Excessive hair loss or patches of baldness on your dog’s coat can be a sign of any number of problems. This can result from such things as hormonal problems and tumors, though it can also be a symptom of emotional problems, like stress or impulse control issues. Different breeds have different rates of shedding, especially as the seasons change, but extreme or unusual hair loss can be an indication of more serious concerns for your dog’s overall health.

That “new dog” smell
The look and feel of the fur aren’t the only ways to monitor your dog’s health through his or her coat. The fur should also smell fresh in between baths. A strong, musky, or foul odor on dry fur is often an indication of bacterial infection, fungus, fleas, or even dry skin. A coat that stays stinky even after a scrub is a sign that a visit to the vet may be in order.

Keeping your dog’s coat strong and shiny will teach you a lot about how to care for his or her health in general. It’s a great way to monitor nutrition, win the fight against parasites, and stay informed about your dog’s feelings. It’s also a wonderful way to bond. Regular brushing, baths, and petting are all part of the process, so show your dog love and attention for the good of his or her health as well as the good of your relationship with one another.

By Michael Sarko via http://www.cesarsway.com

The Most Dangerous Dog

Whenever a dog kills someone it makes the news, but it really isn’t as likely as you might think. You’re 226 times more likely in your lifetime to be killed while walking down the street than to be killed by a dog, and 650 times more likely to die in a vehicle accident, but we haven’t tried to outlaw walking or cars to protect people — yet.

But we have created Breed Specific Legislation (BSL), which are laws that ban the ownership of certain kinds of dogs — generally pit bulls, Rottweilers, German shepherds, and several other power breeds. On the surface, there might appear to be statistical logic behind this, but it would be no different than banning only BMWs because more people are hit by them per year.

Now I have a question for you: What do you think is the most dangerous dog in the world?

If you answered a specific breed — any breed — then you’re wrong. The most dangerous dog in the world is the one that has been made that way by a human, and we only need to look at the pit bull to see why.

A hundred years ago, the major job of the pit bull breeds was to guard the home. Specifically, they kept watch over the children, even babies, and they often did it unsupervised. They had a well-deserved reputation as nanny dogs, and stories of pit bulls attacking humans were unheard of. Before the 1980s, there is only one incident, in 1947, when a pack of pit bulls killed a woman, but the only reason they did that is because a human made them do it.

Things changed in the 1980s as two trends met — dog fighting and gangs — and power breeds, including pit bulls, German shepherds, Rottweilers, and mastiffs, became the dogs of choice. They were used in dog fighting, and they were also trained as attack and guard dogs. Since dog fighting and gangs are both associated with the illegal drug trade, these breeds also made the perfect security to protect drug operations, dealers, and their money.

The reputation has nothing to do with the breed. These same people could have easily decided on St. Bernards or Labrador retrievers or Great Danes as attack or fighting dogs, and could have trained those breeds to do exactly the same thing. For that matter, Yorkies or Chihuahuas could be trained to show all the same aggression.

Of course, the bigger the dog is, the more dangerous it is simply because its bites are more likely to be fatal, but people aren’t only killed by the big dogs. People have been killed by beagles, dachshunds, and even Pomeranians. If you’ve ever seen a Pomeranian, you’re probably finding it hard to imagine that breed as a killer, but it has happened. Any dog can become aggressive, just as any dog can be balanced. The most important part of the equation is not the dog’s breed or the dog’s past. It’s the human Pack Leader involved.

In order to change the present situation we need education. First, we need to teach people that no dog is born to be a killer — we eliminated that need when we domesticated them, so they no longer have to hunt to survive.

Second, we need to teach people that a dog’s behavior is a direct result of the energy of the humans around it. Calm, assertive Pack Leaders have calm, submissive dogs. It’s only when we bring in weak or unstable energy that our dogs develop behavioral issues.

Certain breeds do have specific instincts, of course — sheepdogs herd and spaniels hunt — but by redirecting those instincts in other ways, like through Treibball or agility training, we fulfill the need without it turning into aggression or obsession.

When we first brought dogs into our human packs thousands of years ago we made a promise that still holds when we adopt a dog today: to help the dog live a happy, balanced life by letting it be a dog. There are no troubled breeds. That’s a myth. A dog’s misbehavior begins and ends with us.

Stay calm, and fulfill your dog!

Do you own a dog that has been targeted by BSL? Tell us your experience in the comments.

Whenever a dog kills someone it makes the news, but it really isn’t as likely as you might think. You’re 226 times more likely in your lifetime to be killed while walking down the street than to be killed by a dog, and 650 times more likely to die in a vehicle accident, but we haven’t tried to outlaw walking or cars to protect people — yet.

But we have created Breed Specific Legislation (BSL), which are laws that ban the ownership of certain kinds of dogs — generally pit bulls, Rottweilers, German shepherds, and several other power breeds. On the surface, there might appear to be statistical logic behind this, but it would be no different than banning only BMWs because more people are hit by them per year.

Now I have a question for you: What do you think is the most dangerous dog in the world?

If you answered a specific breed — any breed — then you’re wrong. The most dangerous dog in the world is the one that has been made that way by a human, and we only need to look at the pit bull to see why.

A hundred years ago, the major job of the pit bull breeds was to guard the home. Specifically, they kept watch over the children, even babies, and they often did it unsupervised. They had a well-deserved reputation as nanny dogs, and stories of pit bulls attacking humans were unheard of. Before the 1980s, there is only one incident, in 1947, when a pack of pit bulls killed a woman, but the only reason they did that is because a human made them do it.

Things changed in the 1980s as two trends met — dog fighting and gangs — and power breeds, including pit bulls, German shepherds, Rottweilers, and mastiffs, became the dogs of choice. They were used in dog fighting, and they were also trained as attack and guard dogs. Since dog fighting and gangs are both associated with the illegal drug trade, these breeds also made the perfect security to protect drug operations, dealers, and their money.

The reputation has nothing to do with the breed. These same people could have easily decided on St. Bernards or Labrador retrievers or Great Danes as attack or fighting dogs, and could have trained those breeds to do exactly the same thing. For that matter, Yorkies or Chihuahuas could be trained to show all the same aggression.

Of course, the bigger the dog is, the more dangerous it is simply because its bites are more likely to be fatal, but people aren’t only killed by the big dogs. People have been killed by beagles, dachshunds, and even Pomeranians. If you’ve ever seen a Pomeranian, you’re probably finding it hard to imagine that breed as a killer, but it has happened. Any dog can become aggressive, just as any dog can be balanced. The most important part of the equation is not the dog’s breed or the dog’s past. It’s the human Pack Leader involved.

In order to change the present situation we need education. First, we need to teach people that no dog is born to be a killer — we eliminated that need when we domesticated them, so they no longer have to hunt to survive.

Second, we need to teach people that a dog’s behavior is a direct result of the energy of the humans around it. Calm, assertive Pack Leaders have calm, submissive dogs. It’s only when we bring in weak or unstable energy that our dogs develop behavioral issues.

Certain breeds do have specific instincts, of course — sheepdogs herd and spaniels hunt — but by redirecting those instincts in other ways, like through Treibball or agility training, we fulfill the need without it turning into aggression or obsession.

When we first brought dogs into our human packs thousands of years ago we made a promise that still holds when we adopt a dog today: to help the dog live a happy, balanced life by letting it be a dog. There are no troubled breeds. That’s a myth. A dog’s misbehavior begins and ends with us.

Stay calm, and fulfill your dog!

By: Cesar Milan

Quick Tips For Delivering Puppies

Whelping, which is what the canine birth process is called, is something that should only be handled by people with prior experience, but if you ever do find yourself having to oversee the delivery of a litter of pups, here’s what you need to know to assist.

The two most important things to remember before we go into detail, though, are these:

• The mother dog knows what to do by instinct, so she should do most of the work.
• More than at any other time, you need to heed Cesar’s advice to remain absolutely calm.

Whelping can be a stressful process for both the humans and animals involved, although dogs are usually perfectly capable of getting themselves through these things alone. Still, it’s a good idea to understand the process in case you ever do wind up overseeing canine birth.

With that in mind, here are some things that every expecting Pack Leader should know about puppy births.

The signs of dog labor

Know what to look for when the time is near. After the 64 (or so) days of gestation are up, start watching for some of the following signs in your momma dog:

• She becomes restless.
• She stops eating up to 24 hours before labor.
• She may paw at her bedding, as if preparing a nest.
• She starts licking her vulva.
• She may vomit or discharge mucus.

Some vets see a drop in body temperature as a sign of impending labor while others discount it. Vets who use body temperature see a drop from a normal 101 to 102° F (38 to 39°) down to 99° F (37° C) as the indicator that birth will occur within 12 hours, while others do not think the connection is so clear-cut, so the above signs should take precedence over body temperature.

Supplies to have on hand

It’s important to have certain supplies on hand in order to help get the newborns and momma pup through this process. These include:

Whelping box
A whelping box is necessary for all puppy deliveries. It’s essentially a pen where the mom can go and feel comfortable before, during, and after whelping. You can buy pre-made whelping boxes, but if you haven’t planned ahead, you can use a sturdy cardboard box with the front cut down so the mother can go in and out easily. The sides only need to be high enough to prevent any drafts reaching the pups.

A laundry basket lined with a heating pad and a blanket
This is for the new puppies immediately after they are born. You’ll want to get them out of the mom’s way as quickly as you can — but be sure to leave the basket where the mother can see it and the pups.

Monitor the temperature by listening. If the pups get too hot, they’ll cry, and if they get too cold, they’ll whimper.

A stack of clean towels
These are to clean off the puppies if necessary.

Emergency supplies
Sterile scissors, rubber gloves, antiseptic solution, and heavy thread or dental floss in case you need to tie umbilical cords. These items are must-haves for a few “just in case” scenarios.

Additionally, make sure you have phone numbers on hand for your regular vet as well as for an after-hours animal emergency hospital — most whelping occurs in the predawn hours.

Showtime

When you see a grayish sac drop from the vulva, this means that there’s a puppy on the way! The mother should pass the first puppy within an hour of the sac appearing. If she doesn’t, it’s time to call the vet to discuss whether to bring her in. You should also check in with the vet by phone through the entire whelping process to report its progress, generally about every fifteen minutes.

When the mother needs help

Here are a few things that you might have to do following each puppy’s birth if the mother doesn’t do them herself.

Remove the membrane
Puppies are born in a thin membrane that looks like plastic wrap, which needs to be removed within six minutes so the pup doesn’t suffocate. Normally, the mother will do this immediately. If she doesn’t, then you’ll have to break the membrane yourself.

Rub the puppy with a towel
Right after the membrane comes off, the mother dog will normally lick the puppy, which will stimulate it to breathe and cry. If she doesn’t do this, rub the puppy vigorously with a towel until it starts breathing on its own.

Discard the afterbirth
Within five to fifteen minutes after each birth, a mass of blackish-green tissue called the placenta, or afterbirth, should follow. Once the puppy is born, the placenta is entirely useless. You can discard it.

The mother may try to eat the placenta. If she does, don’t worry. It’s completely natural and won’t cause her any harm, although you should not let her eat more than one or two of them.

It’s also important to keep count of the puppies and placentas, because the afterbirth does not always come out with the puppy. The mother should discharge any unaccounted for placentas after the last puppy is born.

Cut the umbilical cord
If the momma pup doesn’t chew through each umbilical cord on her own, you will have to cut the cord. If you do, be sure to use sterilized scissors, cut about an inch from the pup’s belly, and tie the cord off with the thread or dental floss 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the puppy’s body. When cutting, it’s better to crush the cord rather than make a clean cut; this will reduce bleeding. After you’ve tied it off, dip the end in a shallow dish with either iodine or antiseptic solution.

After each birth

Put the pup in the basket
A newborn pup will instinctively seek out the mother to begin nursing immediately. To ensure their safety, put them in the laundry basket until whelping is finished. Again, they should be where their mother can see them.

Repeat
Remember, unlike humans, multiple births (and breech births) are the norm in dogs, so the first pup will be followed by others. If you’d like an idea of how many puppies to expect, count your dog’s nipples. Usually, that will be the maximum number in the litter. Ultrasound is actually not accurate at counting the puppies in the womb, although an X-ray at about 55 days after breeding is. Depending on breed, the entire whelping process can last anywhere from two to twenty hours.

If the mother continues to have contractions without giving birth to another puppy for more than two hours, call your veterinarian immediately.

After the last birth

Keep them warm and well-fed
Once the last puppy is born and everything seems to be going well for the mother, take her outside to urinate, then bring her and the pups into the whelping box and let them begin nursing. Now the pups need to stay warm and fed. The mother should take care of both, but if she can’t supply enough milk or rejects any or all of the puppies, then it becomes your job.

If the puppies aren’t well-fed, they’ll let you know by complaining, acting restlessly, or sucking at everything. You can feed them yourself with nursing bottles and supplements, available at pet stores.

If any of the puppies are acting lethargic, then it means they’re not warm enough. The puppies’ body temperatures should be right around 97° F (36° C). If their temperature drops below this, it’s time for the heating pad.

They should also show a steady weight gain, and you should weigh each pup often during the first few days. If it’s a large litter or you can’t tell the puppies apart, use a marking system that the mother can’t lick off to distinguish them. For example, you can tie different colored ribbons loosely around each pup’s neck, making sure they stay loose as the dogs grow.

Finally, you must take the mother to the vet with 24 to 48 hours of giving birth. This is to check for any complications or injuries. Your vet will also give your dog a posterior pituitary extract (POP) injection.

Canine whelping, like any live birth, is an amazing thing. But it can be strenuous, both for your dog and you. Hopefully, your dog’s birthing process will be simple and pain-free for every human — and every dog — involved.

By: Cesar Milan

How to create a puppy schedule

When you get a new puppy, it’s only natural to want to simply hang out with them and play and cuddle all day. Unfortunately, there are a number of things that you need to do in those first few days and weeks — both to make sure that your new pup stays healthy and to establish good behavior patterns. Rest assured that the work you put in now will pay off tenfold in the long run.

When your full-grown adult dog is balanced, well-behaved, and the envy of all your Pack Leader neighbors, you’ll be glad you took good care of her right from the beginning.

Getting into a routine

One of the most important things you need to do for your puppy right off the bat is to establish a routine. Though it will be difficult initially for you to decide on a routine that will work for you, your family, and your puppy, don’t wait too long to figure it out.

Here are some of the most important things to make sure you have on your puppy schedule:

1. Feeding
   Your new puppy is doing his best to become a full-grown adult dog. But in order to do so, he’s going to need to eat more frequently than an adult. Where you can feed many adult dogs twice a day — or even just once — puppies need to be fed three times a day like people.

   Sound like a lot of work? Well, the good news is that you can plan your pup’s meals more or less around your own. The best times to feed him are around 7 in the morning, at noon, and then again at 5. You’ll want to follow this schedule for the first 3 to 4 months of your pup’s life. Then you can switch to twice-a-day feedings unless your vet recommends continuing more frequent meals.

   Establishing a routine for eating times is especially important. With a set feeding schedule, your puppy will learn when to expect food and will be less likely to beg between designated meal times.

2. Potty time
   Unless you want to have a big mess on your hands, you need to make sure you’re giving your pup “potty time” every 2-4 hours. Any longer than that and she just won’t be able to hold it. Putting a set time (and place) to this activity also teaches her that this isn’t just something she can do whenever and wherever she feels like it.
3. Keywords training
   Very young puppies can’t get into any kind of formal training class right away, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be teaching him some basics every day. One thing every pup can start learning: keywords.

   Begin with important words like “good,” “bad,” and “no.” Keep these words simple and be consistent with which ones you use. Your dog needs to get used to hearing the same words in order to associate the same meanings with them each time.

4. Exercise and play
   Starting to think you’re never going to have any fun with your new puppy? Well, you can relax, because it’s also important to build time for exercise and play into your schedule.

   Ideally, you want to begin your pup’s day with exercise before she has her first meal. After breakfast, try a pack walk (if she’s too young to go outside, you can do this around the house) followed by some bonding or play time. You’ll repeat this general routine throughout each day. Exercise, meal, exercise, bonding, meal, and so on.

By creating a good schedule for your puppy and starting small with tasks like feeding times, potty times, teaching keywords, and exercising and playing, you will not only save yourself innumerable future headaches, you’ll also ensure that your new bundle of joy grows up to be the best that he can be.

By Josh Weiss-Roessler

Should you kiss your dog?

We all do it — come home and find our dogs at the door, tails wagging, and looking longingly at us. We swoop down, give them a hug and plant a juicy kiss on their faces, often allowing them to reciprocate with a lick on the nose, cheek, or mouth. But is this sanitary? Can you get sick from kissing your dog? A new study may have you thinking twice about letting your dog lick your face.

The study

In 2011, a team of Japanese researchers collected dental plaque from 66 dogs and 81 humans who visited dog training schools and animal clinics in Okayama, Japan. The plaque was placed under the microscope and analyzed for signs of bacteria. As theorized, the research results — as published in the journal Archives of Oral Biology — determined that both humans and dogs contain bacteria in their mouths, which could potentially be transferred to each other through “kissing.”

Kissing your dog can lead to gum disease

Researchers found disease-causing “peridontopathic” bacteria present in plaque of both the dogs and humans tested. This bacteria is linked to periodontis, a severe form of gum disease which, according to the Pacific Northwest Veterinary Dentist & Oral Surgery Center, causes the destruction of the supporting tissues of the tooth and can lead to heart disease, kidney disease, and diabetes.

Types of bacteria found in the samples

The study revealed that three kinds of disease-causing oral bacteria: Porphyromonas gulae, Tannerella forsythia, and Campylobacter rectus “were frequently found in the dogs, whereas the detection rates of those species in humans were less frequent.” There goes the myth that “your dog’s mouth is cleaner than yours.”

The plaque samples also showed the appearance of Porphyromonas gulae in 13 human subjects and all of their tested dogs. In addition, researchers published that bacteria known as, “Eikenella corrodens and Treponema denticola in specimens obtained from dogs were correlated with their presence in specimens from owners who had close contact with them.”

In case the scientific names for the various bacteria are too daunting, the short version is this: they are all know to cause periodontal disease.

Dr. Oz Weighs in

If this study isn’t compelling enough, Oprah’s right hand man, Dr. Mehmet Oz, hosted a segment on his show several years ago warning a dog owner about potential hazards involved with smooching with her pup.

“If your pooch is a scavenger, then a canine lick on the lips could jeopardize your health. The half-eaten hot dog your dog found on the street — or the feces he was nibbling on — could be loaded with germs and bacteria such as toxocara, salmonella, giardia, hookworm, tapeworm and many others, putting your family’s health at risk,” Dr. Oz said in an interview with People Pets.

The bottom line is this: as adorable as those doggie kisses may be, they may give us more than we asked for in the form of gum disease caused by organisms not normally found in the human mouth. You can show your affection to your dog for Valentine’s Day, or at any other time — but it’s probably best to share a hug or a pat and save the kissing for your human pack members.

By Nicole Pajer

Dog obesity and fat dogs — A growing health problem

Dog obesity is one of the fastest growing health problems for dogs today. In this article we’ll discuss the ideal weight for your dog, how to prevent dog obesity through diet and exercise, and what to do if all else fails.

The Dog Obesity Issue

According to the CDC approximately one-third of adults in the United States are obese and the trend towards obesity appears to be worsening. Veterinarians are noticing a corresponding increase in the prevalence of dog obesity. Just as in people, obesity in dogs is associated with various health problems such as diabetes, hypothyroidism, osteoarthritis, cardiopulmonary disease, hypertension and various types of neoplasia such as mammary cancer and transitional cell carcinoma of the bladder. These dog health conditions associated with dog obesity negatively impact the quality of life and longevity for our overweight canine companions and dramatically increase the cost of their veterinary care.

How to Assess Your Dog’s Ideal Weight

BCS stands for Body Condition Score and is a simple non-invasive way of assessing your dog’s weight and should be part of your dog’s regular physical. The most common BCS system is a nine point system where 4/9 to 5/9 are normal, 6/9 to 7/9 are overweight and 8/9 to 9/9 is obese with the dog weighing more than 30% over the ideal weight. You can get an idea of your dog’s BCS by feeling his ribs and looking down to visually assess his waist or lack of. When a dog is at their ideal weight one can feel the ribs along the side of the chest easily since there is no excessive fat covering them and when looking down from above at the dog’s back one can observe a slight hourglass shaped waist after the ribs. When dogs are obese the waist disappears and is either flat or rounded out.

Studies have shown that people tend to underestimate their dog’s BCS so your veterinarian is the best source for a reliable BCS. Get into a habit of asking “What’s my dog’s BCS?” whenever you go in to see your vet. Armed with the knowledge of your dog’s BCS you have a better idea of what his ideal weight should be and what steps you can take to help your dog achieve a healthier weight.

An Ideal Diet for Your Dog

The first step towards helping your dog reach their ideal weight is to know what the ideal energy intake needed to achieve maintenance. This is the level of caloric intake that will not cause your dog to gain or lose weight. A useful formula to estimate the necessary caloric intake to maintain weight is the metabolic energy requirement (MER).

MER(kcal)= 132 x (body weight in kilograms)^0.75

So using the MER formula, an average 30 pound adult dog would require approximately 937 kcal per day to maintain their body weight. Keep in mind that the MER is simply an estimate because each dog has their own unique metabolism. Another thing to keep in mind is that the MER formula is a conservative formula that tends to overestimate a dog’s actual caloric need to maintain a certain weight. Your dog’s life stage and activity levels need to be factored in as well, puppies, working dogs and pregnant dogs need 2x or more their MER. Older sedentary dogs in contrast need only approximately 0.8 times their MER to maintain weight. Ask your veterinarian to help you calculate your dog’s MER if there is any confusion. In any case one should now have an idea of what ballpark your dog’s caloric needs are.

With this information it is a simple matter to determine how many cups of food is needed per day. Good quality dog foods will have their caloric level per cup written on the bag and there are numerous online sites to help consumers determine how many calories are in their dog’s brand of food if the label is lacking in information. With this information, one now knows approximately how much food they need to feed their dog to maintain their weight. Remember to factor in treats as well and decrease how much regular food you give accordingly. Ideally treats should not compose more than 3-4% of daily caloric intake.

To determine what adjustments, if any one needs to make in how much they feed is to consider the dog’s BCS. If the BCS is high then healthy weight loss can be achieved by feeding 80% of the current intake to achieve a gradual weight loss of 1-2% of body weight per week. Special weight loss diets are available that are lower in calories than regular brands of dog foods but are packed with essential nutrients so that your dog doesn’t miss out on anything vital. There is a risk that feeding maintenance diets during the weight loss phase will not provide all the nutrition that your dog needs so check with your veterinarian with any questions about the best diet to feed.

How to Prevent Dog Obesity through Exercise

Reducing an overweight’s dog’s caloric intake can be a little complicated and involves some trial and error but increasing energy expenditure is a breeze. It’s fun too! Simply incorporating some regular exercise into his normal daily regimen will make the weight loss program much more effective. A walk around the block, socializing at the local dog park, tossing a ball or Frisbee around in the backyard and swimming if your dog likes water are all good ideas to help get your dog moving. It also reinforces the human-companion bond and can even help you achieve your own weight loss goals. Get moving, your dog will thank you!

A Last Resort to Treating Dog Obesity

If increasing exercise and decreasing caloric intake are not working there are medications available that can aid weight loss. Dirlotapide also known as Slentrol is available by prescription from veterinarians and works by suppressing the appetite and hindering fat absorption. Pharmacologic intervention should only be considered as a last option and only as a part of an overall weight loss program because all too often people rely on the drug to do all the work and do not make the necessary lifestyle modifications of eating less and moving more. This can result in excess weight returning when the drug is discontinued. This pattern of weight cycling does more harm than good.

By Dr. Kristy Conn

Why do dogs chase their tails?

Man’s best friend can provide all kinds of fun and laughter just by being a dog, but perhaps nothing is more amusing than when your pup suddenly starts to obsess over her own tail and begins spinning around in circles, trying vainly to catch it.

This is a sight that can incite laughter in even the most serious of people, but why exactly does it happen? Can it develop into something more serious? Why do dogs chase their tails so suddenly and obsessively?

Here are a few reasons dogs chase their tails.

Boredom
Oftentimes, dogs will chase their tails because they are a bit bored; it’s a way for them to have fun and expend some energy. This is especially true for puppies, who may not even realize that their tail is actually a part of their body, but see it as a toy. Generally, as dogs age, this kind of play dies down.

Attention
Do you tend to watch and laugh when your dog starts chasing his tail? If he is receiving positive attention from you by engaging in the act, it may cause him to do it whenever he wants you to take notice and play with him.

Something’s wrong
If you notice your dog really going after her tail a lot and trying to nip at it and chew on it, you may want to schedule a trip to the vet. Sometimes dogs will chase their tails because they are being bothered by worms or fleas or experiencing some other kind of medical issue.

Genetics
For reasons that we still don’t really understand, breeds like German shepherds and terriers tend to engage in tail-chasing more than other breeds — even as they grow older. This happens even more when dogs have been trapped indoors for too long.

Compulsion
Some dogs may develop a compulsive disorder that involves chasing their tail. These kinds of behavioral problems can come about for many reasons — confinement, physical abuse, past injury or trauma, separation anxiety, and so on — and need to be addressed.

If your dog is compulsively chasing his tail, he can cause serious damage by biting and chewing on it when he finally does catch it. Dogs have been known to experience hair loss on their tails due to this kind of behavior and even cause themselves injury.

What it boils down to is if you notice that your dog seems to be chasing after her tail an excessive amount, the best thing you can do for her health is to have her checked out by a veterinarian. It’s quite possible that she’s perfectly fine, but if she isn’t, the best way to diagnose the problem is with the help of a medical professional.
By Josh Weiss-Roessler

Symptoms of worms in dogs

Worms are one of the most common health problems for dogs. There are five types of worms that generally affect dogs: heartworms, roundworms, hookworms, tapeworms, and whipworms. Certain types of worms are easier to spot than others. For example, if your dog picks up a tapeworm, it’s common to see what resembles grains of rice in its stool. Heartworms, on the other hand, are harder to diagnose and an infected dog will often show only subtle symptoms until the disease has progressed to a more advanced stage.

Here are the 11 most common symptoms of worms in dogs:

1. Dog coughing

One of the advanced stage symptoms of heartworms in a dog is coughing. Dogs with hookworms and roundworms may also develop a cough.

2. Dog vomiting

Dogs that have worms will often throw up. Roundworms can sometimes show up in a dog’s vomit.

3. Diarrhea in dogs

Soft stools and canine diarrhea can be the result of worms. In addition to diarrhea, dogs with hookworms may have blood in their stools.

4. Low energy dogs

Dogs that are lethargic and less active than normal may be showing symptoms of having worms.

5. Pot bellied appearance

If your dog starts to appear pot bellied or bloated, it may have contracted worms. This is commonly seen in puppies that have picked up worms from their mother.

6. Dog’s change in appetite

If you notice a sudden change in your dog’s appetite, he may have come into contact with roundworms. Dogs that are infected often lose their appetite. As worms steal a dog’s nutrients, a dog with worms may also show a sudden increase in hunger.

7. Dog losing weight

If your dog shows signs of rapid weight loss, he may have a tapeworm or a whipworm.

8. Dull coat

A healthy dog should have a shiny thick coat. If your dog’s coat begins to dull and dry out, he may have picked up a form of worms. Loss of hair or the appearance of rashes can also denote worms.

9. Dog itching and signs of skin irritations

Dogs that show signs of skin irritation may have a severe infestation of worms.

10. Dog rubbing its bottom on the ground “scooting”

While this can often be caused by problems with the anal glands, dogs with worms will occasionally rub their rear ends on the floor in order to relieve themselves of the itch due to worms in the area.

11. Visible worms in fur or fecal matter

Some worms, such as tapeworms may appear as small moving segments in the fur or area around dog’s anus. Roundworms can often be seen in a dog’s stools.

If left untreated, worms can damage your dog’s internal organs and lead to loss of consciousness and death. If you suspect that your dog has worms, take it to your nearest veterinary office. Most worms are easy to treat and your veterinarian will prescribe a medication based on the diagnosis.

The best way to keep your dogs safe is to make sure they use a monthly heartworm disease preventive year round.

By Nicole Pajer

Ear infections in dogs: Symptoms, causes and treatments

Ear infections in dogs are common and most dogs suffer from this painful condition sometime in their life. Scratching and rubbing at the ear(s) and head shaking are common signs. You may also notice an abnormal odor from the ear or see redness or swelling. Most ear infections in adults are caused by bacteria and yeast, though ear mites are a common cause in puppies. Your veterinarian will take a sample from the affected ear(s) and examine it under the microscope to help identify what microorganisms are present.

Treatment for dog ear infection

For successful treatment you must clean the ear with a gentle cleanser as the ear will be painful. An effective way to clean the ear is to fill the ear canal with the cleaning solution, place an appropriate-sized cotton ball in the ear canal opening, then gently massage the ear at the base. The cotton ball serves several functions. It acts as a lid to the allow the fluid to go back and forth in the canal, it absorbs the excess solution and it holds onto the debris as it comes up, letting you know what is down in the ear canal. As long as your dog tolerates it, you can clean the ear several times until the cotton ball comes out fairly clean. There are a few cautions when cleaning a dog’s ear. Do not use Q-Tip swabs as they may push debris deeper into the ear canal and rupture the eardrum. Do not use rubbing alcohol or other solutions that are irritating to inflamed skin (Think of the skin inside the ear of a dog with an ear infection as a rash), After the ear canal has been cleaned, allow it to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Then instill the medication(s) your veterinarian has prescribed (medicated ointment or drops). The length of treatment depends on the patient, severity of infection, and any changes to the ear (i.e., thickening of the tissue in the ear). In some cases oral medications are necessary (antibiotics, anti-yeast, anti-inflammatory). Your veterinarian will schedule rechecks to make sure the medications are working and the infection is cleared.

Causes and prevention of ear infection in dogs

Prevention depends on identifying the underlying cause of the ear infection. In some cases the ear canal becomes moist from bathing, grooming or swimming. This moisture fosters the growth of microorganisms in the ear canal. Prevention in these cases can be as simple as cleaning the ear as previously described to remove the moisture and prevent the infection. However, in many cases an underlying cause may not be so easily identified. Dogs that suffer from allergies, either environmental, such as pollens (grasses, trees and weeds), dust mites, molds or food (beef, chicken, fish, soy, etc.) are predisposed to ear infections. This is due to the microscopic inflammation that allergies cause in the skin allowing overgrowth of bacterial and yeast organisms that normally inhabit the skin.

What microorganism is causing the ear infection and what is the underlying cause? Routine cleaning with a gentle dog-approved ear cleaner may be necessary to reduce the frequency of recurrent ear infections in dogs with allergies. Cleaning your dog’s ears after a bath or grooming appointment may prevent any potential infections.

By Henry Cerny