How Worried Should You Be About Your Pet’s Health?

As responsible pet owners, we all want what is best for our pets. At one end of the spectrum you have “WARNING! NEW PANDEMIC KILLING DOGS!” news articles every other week, and at the other end you have “What your vet doesn’t tell you about all the unnecessary things they recommend” pieces in your inbox on the alternate weeks. It seems like no matter what choices you make, someone is going to tell you that you’re doing it wrong. So what’s a thoughtful person to do?

I stand by the same assertions I always have: When you’re trying to wade through all the information out there, know who you can trust.

There’s nothing more important for your pet’s well-being than having the guidance of pet professionals who you know will give you good advice, and it’s my own roster of people like this that made me sit up and take attention of this week’s canine influenza outbreak in Chicago.

It’s my job to be as honest and thorough as I can when I give advice, and fortunately for me that means a lot of the time I am able to provide reassurance to people when they are worried about something very unlikely to affect them or their pets.

On the other hand, we also have a responsibility to pay attention to those cases where indications point to an actual problem, as we saw last week with Made in the USA jerky, and this week with the canine flu.

According to the Chicago Tribune, confirmed cases have gotten so bad that many boarding facilities and dog parks are closing their doors until the outbreak is under control. Although mortality is low (about 5%), it is highly contagious, and pets who are exposed do stand an 80% chance of showing signs of illness.

The local veterinary community has done a great job of staying on top of the most current data and giving people appropriate recommendations. Here in San Diego, I haven’t added the influenza vaccine to my list of “must haves” because so far the risk is very low and it seems many clients are electing to minimize the number of vaccines their pets receive.

On the other hand, today’s culture of highly traveled people and pets means canine influenza may very well be popping up soon here, or in Dallas, or where you live. This is why what is happening in Chicago matters, even if you are on the other side of the country.

There are no documented instances of canine influenza passing to humans, although canine influenza itself arose from a strain of equine influenza. The potential for a flu strain to pass back and forth from companion animals to people is one of the greatest concerns of the public health community, and another reason we are all watching this closely.

So what do you do now? We all owe it to our pets to change our recommendations based on the most current data available. For healthy dogs who frequently kennel or go to dog parks, I’m going to talk a lot more about the canine influenza vaccine with my clients — because I’d rather be in front of a trend than trying to catch up. If I were in Chicago or another area in the midst of an outbreak, I wouldn’t take my dog to boarding or day care at all until the cases died down.

Making good choices about health is about getting good information and being prepared. That way, we don’t need to panic, because we know we already have the tools we need to do what’s best for our pets.

If you have concerns about your dog and this outbreak, it’s never a bad idea to ask your vet what she thinks, as well.

By Dr. Jessica Vogelsang

Starting your puppy off right!

New puppy owners often make the mistake of endlessly worrying about finding the right accessories, puppy treats, or bed. They spend little or no time thinking about how or what they will teach their new puppy. Yes, a puppy needs nutritious food and a safe, warm place to live, but another equally powerful and important biological necessity is the need for a strong pack leader.

Be the Pack Leader

Puppies are naturally hard-wired to follow a pack leader. A pack leader is, by definition, strong, stable, and consistent; traits many new puppy owners forget. Many of my clients are strong leaders in their jobs, but when they come home, they turn to mush with their dogs. Then they come to me puzzled as to why their dog won’t behave.

Puppies sense our confidence levels and will take control if they perceive us as weak. When this happens, bad behaviors, such as excessive barking, chewing, leash-pulling, or anxiety, will develop.

The most important thing you can do is become your puppy’s pack leader. This role doesn’t begin when your dog is six months old or when he’s bad; it should be maintained throughout the entire dog training experience. For your new puppy to grow into a healthy, balanced dog, you must demonstrate leadership from day one!

Visit to the veterinarian

One of the cornerstones of good health for your puppy is regular veterinary care. It is crucial that your puppy maintains a nutritional diet and exercise routine to stay healthy and balanced. Plus, your vet can advise on heartworm, and flea and tick preventative care. While a lot goes into keeping your puppy in good health, it all begins with the first visit to the vet.

Housebreaking

All dogs become conditioned never to eliminate in their dens. From two to four months of age, most pups pick up on the concept of housebreaking quite easily since it is part of their natural programming.

In the early days of housebreaking you want to make sure the puppy has a place to relieve herself where she feels safe; a place that seems and smells familiar. First thing every morning, bring your puppy outside to the same general area. It is important to remain consistent throughout the process so your puppy can learn the habit.

Once your new puppy has successfully gone outside, it is important to reward the good behavior. It doesn’t have to be a big, loud celebration, but a simple quiet approval or a treat can get the message across of a job well done.

And be sure not to punish your puppy for an accident or do anything to create a negative association with her bodily functions. Stay calm and assertive and quietly remove the puppy to the place where you want him to go.

Dog walking

Please find safe ways to exercise your puppy too! As your puppy’s pack leader, you must help to expend their energy in a productive way. For all dogs, this means a daily walk.

Walking in front of your new puppy allows you to be seen as the pack leader. Conversely, if your dog controls you on the walk, he’s the pack leader. You should be the first one out the door and the first one in. Your puppy should be beside or behind you during the walk.

Also talk to your veterinarian about the risk of long-term bone development problems, parvovirus, and other health issues before implementing an exercise routine.

By Cesar Milan

Why is my dog whining?

If you have or have ever had a dog, then you’ve probably heard it whine at one time or another. Whining is another form of communication that dogs use, but since a dog’s primary form of communication is through energy and body language, the progression to whining indicates a higher level of excitement and need on the part of the dog.

Dogs whine to communicate their physical, mental, or emotional state, and not all whines are created equal. Here are the main categories, and what your dog may be trying to tell you.

Physical need

If your dog suddenly starts whining for no apparent reason, the first thing to rule out is pain or any other kind of physical distress. This is particularly the case for a dog that whines while lying down in a very submissive posture without trying to engage you in any other way.

If this behavior comes on suddenly, consult your veterinarian first to rule out any pain or discomfort.

Another physical requirement that dogs may express through whining is the need to relieve themselves, particularly if they are housetrained. As the urge to urinate or defecate rises, it conflicts with their instinct not to go inside their den. This is a very specific form of frustration, and may be combined with your dog scratching at the door or nudging you with her snout.

Mental state

In the pack, whining is often a sign of submission. It’s a dog’s way of telling a more dominant dog, “I give up.” This is usually accompanied by submissive posture: ears, tail and head down, and a dog showing submission or deference may often also “squat,” putting their entire body low to the ground.

If your dog does give you an appeasement whine, the best thing you can do is acknowledge it quietly, and then walk away. To a dog, this means, “Apology accepted.”

Your dog may also greet you by whining, in which case she is expressing excitement. In this case, your dog may also jump up and down or spin around. This is the time to practice “no touch, no talk, no eye contact,” until he settles down.

Finally, a dog can use whining to let you know that they want something — particularly if this behavior has worked for them before. You just have to make sure they go into a calm-submissive state before and if you decide to give them what they want.

Emotional state

Finally, dogs can whine to communicate their emotional state to us, with their body language and energy being a key to understanding which state they are expressing.

A dog can whine because she’s excited, anxious, frustrated, or fearful. Excitement will come with a lot of jumping, circling, yipping, and activity in general. Anxiety is accompanied by nervous pacing, and uncertain body language — ears and tail down, constant looking around.

A frustrated dog may show obsessive behavior while whining, such as scratching at the door or reaching under the couch. A fearful dog will whine while showing submissive body language, possibly even trembling. Such a dog will try to escape by avoiding people or hiding.

Whining is not a dog’s preferred method of communication, but since humans talk all the time, it can be natural for a dog to pick up on this and start vocalizing herself. We can certainly learn some useful information when our dog does whine, but if we do not respond to it properly, it can become an unwanted behavior.

It’s easy to see a dog’s whining as cute, but if we fail to understand the reasons for it and instead give immediate attention and affection to a whining dog, we will just teach our dogs to whine all the time, which can lead to other unwanted behaviors, like constant barking.

As with everything else, the key is to remain a calm, assertive Pack Leader, and move your dog from whining to a calm, submissive state before you give them what they were asking for — if you do. As with children, just because a dog asks you for something, it doesn’t mean she should get it. That decision is up to you, the leader of the pack.

By Cesar Milan

Spring cleaning tips for dog owners

Yes, it’s that time of year. But cleaning doesn’t have to be a chore if you follow our quick and easy tips. You and your pup will both be happier and healthier if you do!

Plus, we’ve got tips for safer cleaning and recipes for cleaning products that use simple ingredients from your pantry, like baking soda, vinegar and lemon juice here.

Air Filter
Trap airborne dust and dander with a filter to reduce lingering pet odors in your home. Look for filters made especially for pet owners; they come with built-in ionizers that minimize allergens and help deliver a boost of air freshening.

Beds and Bedding
Your dog’s bedding tends to attract a buildup of dirt and grime. Follow these four steps to ensure a clean, comfortable sleep for Fido.

• Choose a bed with a removable fabric cover.
• Vacuum the bed regularly to remove hair, dirt, and other debris. Follow up with a lint roller to pull away any hair the vacuum may have left behind.
• Wash the cover and the bed base (if it’s machine washable) in cold water. Use a mild laundry detergent—no dyes or fragrance. Add a cup of baking soda to help neutralize odor.
• Dry (in the clothes dryer) for about 20 minutes. Use at least one pet-safe dryer sheet (teddyneedsabath.com); this will reduce static electricity and remove more pet hair. To avoid shrinkage, finish by line drying.

Collar Cleaning
A stinky collar can ruin the pleasures of a freshly groomed dog. But how do you clean a dog collar without damaging the webbing material or hardware? Put a couple of squirts of dog shampoo (which will help prevent skin irritation) in a bowl and fill the bowl with hot water. Let your dog’s collar soak for about 15 minutes. Rub the collar against itself to extract any ground-in dirt. If necessary, apply extra shampoo directly to the collar. Avoid using a brush, which could damage the material. Rinse the collar under running water and hang to dry. If you need to speed up the drying, use a towel to remove excess water before hanging.

Dog Hair
To remove pet hair from furniture, drapes, or other fabric-covered items, use rubber gloves. Slightly dampen a glove on your hand and sweep the fabric with it. Hair will ball up and be easy to pick up. Wash and dry gloves between uses.

Lavender Oil
Not only is lavender essential oil soothing to the central nervous system, but when applied regularly between your dog’s shoulder blades, it can keep fleas and ticks at bay. Try a lavender room mist in your car to keep your dog calm and your automobile smelling fresh after a day at the beach or park with your pooch.

Muddy Paws
The rain in spring means muddy paws, but a little prevention can keep your dog from tracking dirt inside the house. First, trim the hair around your pup’s paws regularly — mud won’t clump to his feet when the hair is kept short. On days that you can’t avoid a little mud, keep a bucket of warm water and a towel near the door. Before you come inside, remove dirt by dipping each paw in the water and gently wiping it with the towel.

Quick Bath
Over-bathing your dog can cause dry skin, which results in itching and flaking.  Avoid these issues—but keep your pup smelling fresh—by giving him a quick dry bath. Brush out his coat first to loosen dead hair, dirt, and debris. Wipe him down with a towel spritzed with a solution of half apple cider vinegar and half water. Follow up by sprinkling baking soda on him and rubbing it in, which will neutralize the smell of the vinegar. Let it sit for a minute or two, then brush it off. Tip: Give your dog his dry bath outdoors, or another place where a little mess won’t matter!

Toys
Wash dog toys to keep them germ-free and in good shape for years of enjoyment. For soft toys, pop them in the washing machine, ideally in a garment bag. (Be sure to use dog-safe detergent.) Line dry or put them in the dryer inside a pillowcase. Hard toys can be cleaned in the sink with a solution of 50% water and 50% vinegar and a brush or sponge. An easy alternative: Put your pal’s toys in the dishwasher with her bowls.

Urine
Even if you can’t smell traces of urine, your dog can. It’s important to clean and neutralize these odors, because as long as he can smell it, he’ll continue to use that area as his personal potty. For new stains, soak up as much as you can by layering newspaper on top of paper towels and standing on the padding. Repeat this step until the area is no longer damp. The Humane Society suggests taking urine-soaked paper towels outside in order to positively reinforce to your dog where it is suitable for him to do his business. Follow up by rinsing the soiled area with water. Once the area is clean, use an enzyme-based pet odor neutralizer like Dog Whisperer Natural Stain and Odor Remover

Vacuum
When choosing a vacuum, focus on suction—disregard horsepower, watts, or amps which are measure of electrical current, not pickup. Vacuums with upright canisters are best for carpets.

Yard
Maintaining your yard can help cut down on messes inside the home.

• If your yard is mostly dirt, consider putting sod down in one area. By providing a grassy area for your dog to play, you can minimize the amount of dirt and mud she’ll track indoors.
• Keep your dog’s boredom at bay by providing toys exclusively for outdoor play. If she has something to play with, she will be less likely to paw at dirt, so her paws will stay cleaner. And keep her outdoor toys outside.
• Some dogs are sensitive to citrus smells. Scatter the peels of a few oranges in places where you don’t want your dog to dig—like flower beds or vegetable gardens.

It’s important to keep certain garden items cleaned up and away from your pets:

• Bait traps for rodents, snails, and slugs
• Insecticides
• Blood meal
• Fertilizers

Some common plants that are toxic for dogs (you can find a complete list at the ASPCA website):

• azaleas
• daffodils
• hyacinths
• tulips
• lilies
• oleander
• sago palm
• foxglove
• mushrooms

B Cesar Milan

Most common food allergies in dogs

While it has become common to watch out for the signs of life-threatening food allergies in young children, it still comes as a surprise to some dog parents that their four-legged companions can also suffer from food allergies.

Just like in humans, a food allergy occurs when a dog’s immune system mistakenly believes a specific food is harmful. The dog’s immune system responds with antibodies, which triggers a series of dangerous symptoms.

Many seemingly random symptoms can be signs of a food allergy in a dog. These include:

• Chronic ear inflammation
• Itching
• Paw biting
• Poor coat quality
• Obsessive licking

Other symptoms more closely mimic symptoms seen in humans with food allergies, such as:

• Skin rash
• Hives
• Itching
• Nausea

• Chronic diarrhea
• Itchy rear end
• Chronic gas
• Vomiting

If you notice any of these symptoms in your dog, it is extremely important to have them checked out by a vet to determine if the symptoms are indeed signs of a food allergy.

The more the dog is exposed to the allergen, the more severe the reaction will become. Even if your dog is only irritated by the symptoms initially, they could be life-threatening the next time they eat the problem food.

Kinds of foods to watch out for

Dogs can be allergic to nearly any specific food ingredient. However, there are certain meats and grains that are more likely to cause an allergic reaction in your dog. These include:

• Pork
• Rabbit
• Beef
• Chicken
• Fish

• Lamb
• Egg
• Corn
• Soy
• Wheat
• Dairy

If your dog is allergic to one ingredient, she’s likely allergic to other ingredients as well.

To isolate which foods your dog is reacting to, your vet will likely put your dog on an elimination diet, followed by a food challenge. This is done by solely feeding your dog one or two foods, such as ground turkey and sweet potatoes. Once you’ve established that your dog doesn’t have a reaction to these two foods, you can start the food challenges.

Gradually, more items are added in, until you notice that your dog has an allergic reaction. This will clearly identify which allergens your dog is reacting to, and you can then create a diet avoiding any triggers.

If you find that your dog is still suffering from an allergic response, no matter what combination of food you give, then it’s likely your dog is not allergic to a particular food but may suffer an allergy to something else present in the environment, such as pollen, dander, a specific fabric, or a medication.

While it may seem overwhelming to care for a dog with food allergies, it is much simpler today than it was in the past. Many more foods are available, offering a wide variety of protein and grains that your dog may not react to, such as kangaroo, venison, potatoes, or oatmeal. With a little care and education, you can keep your dog safe, happy, healthy, and well fed.

By Juliana Weiss-Roessler

Mammary Gland Tumor in Dogs

Benign and malignant tumors of the mammary glands occur fairly frequently in unspayed female dogs, in fact they are the most common type of tumor in the group. Spaying can largely reduce the risk of developing this type of cancer, especially if the dog is spayed before it has an opportunity to go into heat. There are two main types of mammary gland breast tumors, each with several subtypes of tumor growth.

The mammary glands’ function is to produce milk to feed newborn puppies. They are located in two rows that extend from the chest to the lower abdominal area; the nipples indicate their location on the trunk of the body. While this condition is more likely to occur in the female population, it does also affect male dogs, albeit rarely. When a male dog is affected by a tumor of the breast, the prognosis is much more guarded and grave.

A genetic basis is possible in some breeds, and there are frequently some genes that can be identified in dogs that are predisposed to cancer of the mammary glands. For example, toy and miniature poodles, English springer spaniels, Brittanys, cocker spaniels, English setters, pointers, German shepherd dogs, Maltese, and Yorkshire terriers have been reported to have an increased risk of developing breast or mammary tumors compared to other breeds. Median age is about 10.5 years (range, 1 to 15 years of age); it is less common in dogs younger than five.

Symptoms and Types

• Usually slow-growing single or multiple masses in the mammary glands – about half of patients have multiple tumors
• May have superficial loss of tissue on the surface of the skin over the mammary tissue, frequently with inflammation
• Mass may be freely movable, which implies benign behavior
• May be fixed to skin or body wall, which implies malignant behavior or cancer

About half of affected dogs will be diagnosed with the benign form of mammary tumors, which may be classified as complex adenomas, simple adenomas, fibroadenomas, and duct papillomas. The approximate other half of dogs to be diagnosed with mammary tumors will have a malignant form of tumor, which may be osteosarcomas, fibrosarcomas, solid carcinomas, and papillary cystic adenocarcinomas, amongst others.

Causes

Unknown, although likely hormonal or genetic.

Several diseases could account for the symptoms, so your veterinarian will want to rule them out before arriving at a conclusion. You will need to give a thorough history of your dog’s health and onset of symptoms.

A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, a complete blood count, and a urinalysis. Diagnostics will include X-rays of the chest and abdomen, which may detect metastasis. It will be necessary to conduct a biopsyof the mass to fully determine its nature, whether benign or malignant. In addition, the lymph nodes will be examined, and a sample taken from them for laboratory analysis.

urgery is the primary mode of treatment. The tumor(s) will need to be removed. Depending on the age of your dog, the type of tumor is present, and the rate at which the tumors have metastasized, your doctor may remove the tumor only, or all of the tumor along with the surrounding tissue, lymph nodes and mammary glands.

Some types of tumor are more invasive, rotting deeper into the tissue or bone, making then very difficult to remove. In these cases, partial removal of the cancerous mass and surrounding tissue may be performed, and chemotherapy may be an option, but use of chemotherapy for breast or mammary tumors is not typically used. Surgical removal of the tumor may be as effective in terms of disease-free interval as radical bilateral mastectomy is for humans.

Spaying intact bitches at the time of surgical removal of the breast or affected mammary tissue is often the preferred method, and this may enhance survival as it decreases the possibility of recurrence. However, this depends on the age of your dog as well. If your dog is older, this method will not be as beneficial. Your veterinarian will consult a veterinary oncologist (cancer specialist) for additional or updated information regarding chemotherapy in dogs.

Prevention

Spaying before the first heat or estrous cycle will greatly reduce your dog’s risk for developing breast or mammary tumors compared to an intact bitch; spaying before the first heat or estrus is also suggested to markedly decrease the likelihood of developing mammary tumors. Early spaying is the best method for prevention of this form of cancer. If spaying is delayed until before the second heat or estrous cycle the risk of developing breast or mammary tumors compared to intact bitches increases to 8 percent.

If spaying is delayed until after the second heat or estrous cycle, there is a 26 percent risk of developing breast or mammary tumors compared to an intact bitch, and if spaying takes place after the dog has reached 2.5 years of age, there is no sparing effect on the risk of developing breast or mammary tumors.

Living and Management

Your veterinarian or a consulting veterinary oncologist will recommend a treatment plan that will include managing your dog’s health at home, with follow-up progress visits to the veterinarian or oncologist. Physical examinations and chest X-rays will be required one, three, six, nine and twelve months following the initial treatment to check for recurrence or changes in the tissue.

The prognosis and course the disease will take varies with the type of breast or mammary tumor your dog has (for example, whether the tumor is benign or malignant), as well as the size of the tumor, and the presence or absence of metastasis.

Surgery for tumors that have not spread may be curative. For example, median survival after surgical removal of the breast or mammary tissue (mastectomy) with tubular adenocarcinoma is 24.6 months. Median survival after surgical removal of the breast or mammary tissue (mastectomy) with a solid carcinoma is 6.5 months. Benign tumors have an excellent prognosis after mastectomy. Carcinomas that are less than five centimeters in diameter also usually have a good prognosis forremission, if the excision is complete. However, regional lymph-node involvement, which can be confirmed by microscopic evaluation, makes the prognosis worse and full recovery may not be possible.

You should never ignore a breast or mammary nodule, or adopt a wait and see attitude towards it. A breast or mammary lump should never be left in place and observed, as it can quickly metastasize when it is the malignant form, spreading throughout the body and becoming untreatable before its severity is recognized. Early detection and thorough surgical intervention is best.

Always make a plan for evaluation and possible surgical removal of any lump in the mammary gland(s), if you have a female dog that you are leaving intact for possible breeding. On the other hand, if breeding is not essential for your dog, early spaying before the first heat or estrus will markedly decreases the likelihood of her developing breast or mammary gland tumors.

By Pet MD

How often to bathe a dog

The simple answer to this question of how often to bathe a dog is: how often do you want to bathe your dog? Unless a dog has skin problems, there is no specific need to bathe the dog except to make him a more enjoyable companion.

Just like people, some dogs get stinky faster than others. I have known dogs that have never had a bath in their life and do not have an unpleasant smell, but my own dogs get bathed weekly.

Bath Time’s the Best!

No matter what age, size, sex or breed of dog you have, you can make bathing a pleasant part of your dog’s life if you do two things:

1. Teach your dog to associate bathing with things he loves.
2. Take it slow and easy.

Associate Bathing with Good Things

Many dogs find bath time unpleasant—and who can blame them? It involves being restrained, soaked with water (which some dogs really dislike), slathered in scented suds and handled in various, sometimes uncomfortable ways. However, you can help your dog learn to tolerate—and maybe even enjoy—bathing.

The secret is to teach your dog that bathing is always followed by things he loves. If your dog learns that bath time reliably leads to wonderful stuff—like special treats, brand-new chew toys, the start of a favorite game, a walk in the park or dinnertime—he’ll soon learn to feel much better about it. And if he feels much better about getting a bath, he’ll behave better too, which will make bath time easier for both of you. So whenever you bathe your dog, help him to associate bath time with things he enjoys. Right after putting him into the tub, give him a tasty treat, like a small bite of chicken or cheese. If your dog seems nervous about running water, give him a treat right after turning on the tap. After toweling him off, immediately invite him to play a rousing game of tug or give him a handful of his favorite treats. With repetition, your dog will probably decide that getting a bath is fun, not frightening or stressful.

General Dog Bathing Guidelines

I recommend you bathe a dog with normal skin once a month with dog shampoo or human baby shampoo. If you want to bathe more often than that, use a soap-free or moisturizing shampoo to prevent the skin from becoming dry.

By Dr. Sherry Weaver

Why are dogs’ noses wet?

For many dog owners, it’s one of life’s greatest joys: You enter a room and immediately your pooch is at your side and shoving his face into you, sniffing away with his cold, wet nose. It’s something that should probably feel disgusting, but instead it’s wonderful and endearing to have that slimy little thing all up in your business.

Have you ever wondered why dogs’ noses are wet, though? Your nose works perfectly fine dry, so what’s up with their sniffers? It turns out that there are many reasons for those wet noses — and a big misconception about what wet vs. dry noses really mean.

5 reasons your dog has a wet nose

Why are dogs’ noses wet? Let us count the reasons.

1. Because they secrete mucus
   Before you get too grossed out that your pup has been rubbing her mucus-ridden schnoz all over you, this doesn’t mean what you think it means. When dogs are trying to follow a specific scent, their noses make a thin layer of mucus that allows them to actually absorb scent chemicals and, therefore, smell better.
2. Because dogs tend to lick them a lot
   This one seems pretty straightforward, but there’s more to it — namely, why dogs lick their noses. There are two main reasons.

   First, because those long snouts and noses can get dirty pretty easily, especially when they’re rooting around in food. Licking cleans them off. Dogs also lick their noses because of the mucus mentioned above. Why? Because they can actually lick off those scent chemicals so that the olfactory glands on the roof of their mouth can sample them.

3. Because it helps them to cool down
   Most dog owners know that dogs pant to cool off rather than sweating, but this isn’t strictly true. Dogs do actually sweat — by secreting moisture from their paws and their nose. A really wet nose may be Fido’s way of releasing heat after exerting himself.
4. Because dogs’ noses tend to pick up moisture
   If you’ve ever watched your dog sniffing around outside, you know that it’s an “all-in” process where that nose is often being shoved right into grass, leaves, dirt, and so on. In doing this, dogs’ noses often pick up moisture from the environment, making them cold and wet.
5. Because they’re born that way
   Certain dogs and dog breeds just have colder, wetter noses than others due to genetics and other factors.

Now it’s time to dispel a myth. It’s likely that you’ve heard tales of how a hot, dry nose means that your dog is sick. In fact, you may have even spent some time in the vet’s office due to this little piece of acquired knowledge. However, it’s just an old wives’ tale.

Beyond this, the temperature and moisture level of your dog’s nose likely fluctuates quite a bit on a normal day, so it’s quite possible for it to be wet in the morning, dry in the middle of the day, and slimy again in the evening. Also, it’s important to note that dogs can be sick even if their noses are cold and wet.

Instead of obsessing over the moisture level, you should keep an eye on the kind of discharge coming from your dog’s nose. If the mucus suddenly become crusty or gets thicker, this can be a sign that something is wrong.

By Josh Weiss-Roessler

How to fit the dog walk into your daily schedule!

Walking your dogs is important for a variety of reasons:

• It provides them with much-needed exercise that keeps them healthy and relieves excess energy so they don’t cause problems around the house.
• It stimulates their brain because there are so many new smells, sights, and sounds to experience.
• It gives you a fantastic opportunity to train your dog and make sure that they recognize you as the Pack Leader.
• And, of course, it allows them to go to the bathroom.

Despite all of these benefits, many people only walk their dogs intermittently — or not at all — because they don’t feel like they can fit dog walks into a daily schedule that may include work, school, kids, and more. Because of that, we thought we’d offer up some helpful tips that can get you out the door with your pups.

1. Set Up a Schedule
   Ideally, you want to try to walk your dogs at the same time every day, so creating a schedule can be very helpful. If you know you’re going to be walking them every day at 7 a.m. and 7 p.m., you can plan the rest of your life around this, set alarms, and so on. Just remember to protect yourself and your dog with reflective gear or anLED collar if it is dark out. And speaking of setting alarms…
2. Have a Daily Reminder
   While an alarm clock may be necessary to help you get up for an early morning dog walk, it’s not the only way to stay on track. For many, setting up a daily reminder on their phone will be even more valuable — and less intrusive. Dogs also have an innate sense of time, so if you get them on a regular walk schedule, they’ll start reminding you themselves.
3. Bring the Stroller
   Many people find that it becomes more difficult to walk their dogs after they have children, but you can’t let this stop you. Bring your little one with you on the walk by putting them in the stroller and bringing them along. Including the baby on the walk can also give your dog a job “herding” the stroller as you go.
4. Be Flexible
   Can’t walk your dogs at the scheduled time one day? No worries — do it a few hours later. Unable to get a walk in at all? Come up with a backup plan such as tossing a tennis ball around your yard. Weather not walk-friendly? Exercise your dog indoors!
5. Get Up a Half Hour Earlier
   If your problem is that you genuinely don’t have time in your daily schedule to go for a dog walk, one of the best solutions can be to expand that schedule by getting up earlier and devoting this time to the walk. It will be an adjustment at first, but both you and your dogs will benefit.

The underlying message here is that life will always create obstacles — it’s up to you to find your way around them so that your dogs can stay happy and healthy.

By Josh Weiss-Roessler

Why Grooming Your Dog Is Great for His Health

Contrary to what select prissy pet salons advertise, dog grooming isn’t a canine luxury. It’s a necessity, and it doesn’t have to break the bank.

Keeping your pet well groomed not only makes for a clean-smelling companion, it also helps keep your dog more comfortable and allows you to spot health problems before they become serious, or even life-threatening.

Your dog doesn’t need to know what a mat feels like if you keep him brushed and combed, but that’s just the start of the health benefits. Regular grooming allows you to look for lumps, bumps and injuries, all while clearing mats and ticks from his coat. Follow up with your veterinarian on any questionable masses you find, and you may detect cancer early enough to save your pet’s life.

For shorthaired breeds, keeping skin and coat in good shape is easy. Run your hands over him daily and brush weekly — that’s it.

For other breeds, grooming is a little more involved. Breeds such as Collies, Chows, Keeshonden and Alaskan Malamutes are “double-coated,” which means they have a downy undercoat underneath a harsher layer of long hair. The down can mat like a layer of felt against the skin if left untended. To prevent this, divide the coat into small sections and brush against the grain from the skin outward, working from head to tail, section by section. In the spring and fall — the big shedding times — you’ll end up with enough fluffy undercoat to make a whole new dog. Keep brushing and think of the benefits: The fur you pull out with a brush won’t end up on the furniture. Plus, removing the old stuff keeps your pet cooler in the summer and allows new insulation come in for the winter.

Silky-coated dogs such as Afghan Hounds, Cockers and Maltese also need constant brushing to keep tangles from forming. As with the double-coated dogs, work with small sections at a time, brushing from the skin outward, and then comb back into place with the grain for a glossy, finished look. Coats of this type require so much attention that having a groomer keep the dogs trimmed to a medium length is often more practical. In fact, experts say that the pets who shed the least are longhaired dogs kept short-trimmed by a groomer.

Curly and wiry coats, such as those on Poodles and Terriers, need to be brushed weekly, working against the grain and then with it. Curly coats need to be clipped every six weeks; wiry ones, two or three times a year (though clipping every six weeks will keep your Terrier looking sharper).

Good grooming also provides benefits for both of you. Regular grooming relaxes the dog who’s used to it, and it becomes a special time that you can both share. A coat free of mats, burrs and tangles and skin free of fleas and ticks are as comfortable to your dog as fresh, clean clothes are to you. It makes you feel good, and the effect is the same for your pet. And, for allergy sufferers, keeping your pooch clean may make having a dog possible.

Some added benefit for you: Giving your dog a tummy rub after every session is sure to relax you (and your dog, of course) and ease the stress of your day.

By Dr.Marty Becker